Here is some helpful information for people who are planning a climbing vacation. For a rock climbing vacation, October and March offer better temps and fewer crowds than some of the more popular months. December through February tend to be too cold. April, May, September, and November are also fine options for rock climbing, depending on the climber's preference for climbing in sun vs. shade, as well as crowds vs. fewer people and overall temperature outside.
The Grand Grotta: Showpiece of Kalymnos Climbing
Probably the best-known feature of Kalymnos climbing, the Grand Grotta is an absolutely enormous cave filled with giant tufas and stalactites. These impressive and unusual features make it possible for climbers to ascend this severely overhung terrain with relative ease. Unfortunately, these features are also subject to breakage from climber traffic, especially in springtime when the rock is wet.
DNA (12a) might be the most-climbed route on Kalymnos. With no move harder than 5.10, this climb is truly a jug haul through and through. It also has kneebars, armbars, and other creative body-part-bars available at many points on the route. Its difficulty comes from the steep angle of the climb. Other good 5.12s in the Grotta include Ivi (12b) and Aegealis (12d).
Panorama: Offering Ample Opportunities to Climb 5.12 on this Climbing Vacation
Situated just to the right of the Grand Grotta when facing the cliffs, Panorama features an array of stellar 5.12 climbs. It also has great warm-ups. Panorama is not as steep as the Grotta. While it has some stalactites, it has lots of tufas that are fun to pinch and stem between. The routes tend to be somewhat pumpy. Recommended 5.12s include Aeolia (12a), Lulu in the Sky (12c), and Super Carpe Diem (12d).
Spartacus: Essential to Visit on a Kalymnos Climbing Trip
Spartacus lies up the hill to the left when facing the Grotta, about 10 or 20 minutes further to hike. While small compared to the Grotta, Spartacus packs a big punch for its quantity of quality climbs. These routes tend to have distinctive cruxes separated by good rests, with some pumpy climbing. Pockets and tufas are the norm here. Gladiator (12b), Spartacus (12c), and Spartacus Maximus (12d) are highly recommended.
Odyssey: Climbing in Kalymnos Isn't Complete Without It
Odyssey features some of Kalymnos' finest climbing. Located in a different area entirely from the Grand Grotta, Odyssey's climbing tends to be less featured with tufas and stalactites and more technical. Pockets and even some crimps are the norm here, along with the occasional section of tufas. Excellent 5.12s include Amphora (12b), Daphne (12b), Island in the Sun (12a), Alfredo Alfredo (12c), and Fourtouno (12c).